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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. But, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the owners completely astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest place securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.